This Blue-Green Control deck revolves around the use of protecting and maintaining Shirozaru/Egotist as long as possible. Shiro-Egotist BG Denial focuses primarily on preserving your cards and making the opponent unable to fight back. It excels at slowing down other decks, mostly aggro. Deck's main win condition is to focus on face damage, though fatigue is also a common side-effect.
Stats[]
| Name:Shiro-Egotist BG Control | The name of the deck. |
|---|---|
| Creator:Shirozaru | The name of the person who built the deck. |
| Deck Colors:Mostly Blue, some Green | The most common colors in the deck. |
| Deck Type:Control | The category of the deck's playstyle. See Deck Terminology for help on this. |
| Goldfish: 5-60 | How many turns, on average, the deck takes to win. |
| Consistency: 3.5/5 | How much you'll not hate the opening hand, or how static the cards' effects are. A rating of 5/5 represents a deck that always gets to do what it wants in the first couple turns and whose effects do the same thing every time. |
| Complexity: 3/5 | How difficult the deck is to play. A rating of 5/5 represents the most difficult deck to master. |
| Accessibility: 2/5 | How easy it is to get the cards to build the deck. A rating of 5/5 represents a deck anyone could easily and cheaply purchase or create. |
| Versatility: 2/5 | How difficult the deck is to counter, or how often it can interact with other decks. A rating of 5/5 represents the most difficult deck to play against. |
| Popularity: 1/5 | How often people play this deck. A rating of 5/5 represents a deck that everyone plays or has played. |
Decklist[]
| FIGHTERS |
|---|
| Shirozaru x1 |
| Great Lord Egotist x1 |
| Korblox Archer x4 |
| Dairingpoophead x3 |
| Brunito x3 |
| Jimminus x3 |
| Snowskateer x2 |
| Subata x2 |
| Darpeh x2 |
| AsrielMemer x2 |
| Lord Tethamet x2 |
| Bearded Captain x2 |
| ImaUMBREON x2 |
| Dicey Drake x1 |
| Spikle x3 |
| Pirate x2 |
| Classy Bear x2 |
| ACTIONS |
| Eye Spy x2 |
| Luck o' the Lobsters x1 |
How to Play[]
Early Game: Your highest priority right now is trying to get your icon flow started. The absolute best cards you can pull in your starting hand, in order from highest to lowest of the 3 best in terms of quality, are Dairingpoophead, Spikle, and Brunito. That can change depending on what the opponent has played, if they're going first, but that's the gist of it. Again, your entire goal right now is trying to get a decent flow to go into mid game so you can start playing your colored icons. That's where most of the control comes into play. If you're struggling you can use cards like Subata to hold the line, or ImaUMBREON for a quick 150 depower as well as some additional blue gen. Brunito is your only colorless green generator because there's not many green cards in this deck, plus he's useful for genning blue as well.
Mid Game: This is where you're going to try to actually use your icons to your advantage. Without overflooding your board (unless A: you know your opponent doesn't have or can't afford a wipe, or B: Shirozaru is not in your hand), you want to keep the pressure on your opponent's field by keeping their power as low as possible. Classy Bear is your strongest green card at this point of the game, as it's very useful for lowering the opponent's fighters' power. At this stage in the game you want to at least get out either Shiro or Egotist. Usually, try to summon Shiro if their board state cannot kill a 400 hp fighter (due to depowers). LordTethamet is extremely valuable for getting Shiro out because he locks all fighters on the field when summoned, and then lowers any further fighters the opponent summons by 150, making it that much harder to kill off a Primordial Soul should you follow Tethamet up with Shirozaru.
Late Game: This is the stage in the game where the opponent should be feeling the pressure so long as you're keeping up with the depowers. At this point, Egotist quickly becomes your strongest green if you managed to summon him (and, most importantly, keep him alive) during Mid Game. This is because the opponent's hand should now have a decent amount of Nightmares to deal with, and now not only have to handle taking out Shiro (preferrably the Primordial Crows at this point) and Egotist, but while also making sure that their hand doesn't get 10 Nightmares. Usually if the opponent gets 10 Nightmares in their hand, it's game over since they can no longer draw, let alone keep up with your boardstate. Your end goal is to get out the Primordial Crows, and bully their power so you completely overrun them with 4 800/800's. Because they're WeakenImmune it's okay to overcommit, since they don't die to boardwipes.
Weaknesses and Counterplay[]
This deck is easiest to beat during the beginning stages, at Early Game. While the deck does excel at slowing Aggro down, it usually has to get in or close to Mid Game before the scales tip in this deck's favor. If an Aggro deck can explode fast enough to keep the icon generation down, they can usually overrun this deck. Another problem this deck faces is bread decks, since they don't focus on attacking with face damage. The most dangerous opponent this deck can face is a Set Deck, who effectively cannot be depowered whatsoever since they're setting their own stats. Set Decks are especially dangerous to Shirozaru's Primordial Crows, since they aren't SetImmune. Icon Denial is another way to stop this deck, since it needs to generate both Blue and Green icons. If they aren't playing a Set Deck, Primordial Crows are still at risk of being Divine Favor'd, so if you suspect your opponent is holding one (or know they are because of Eye Spy), hold off on using Horologium.