Blox Cards Wikia

The cards on this page are likely to be different ingame. The general principles of differentiating cards, however, are not.

So. You want to know how to figure out which cards are good. Here's how.

1. Comparisons

The most crucial thing to learn about card power is that it is entirely relative; The power of a card is based on the power of other cards.

What this means is that, in order to determine card power, we need to compare cards to other cards.

There are three forms of comparisons for every card: Strictly Better/Worse, Situationally Better/Worse, and Non-comparable. We'll be going over all three today.

(Generally speaking, better cards will lead to you gaining a card advantage over your opponent. A card advantage is when you have more cards in your hand and field combined than your opponent.)

Strictly Better/Worse

In normal playing scenarios, if a card is better than another card, that card is strictly better.

(Don't rely on this method. If a card is strictly better than another in every possible scenario, then it's likely to be changed.)

For example, let's compare old AsrielMemer to old 2Hex.


About AsrielMemer About 2Hex
Cost: x4 White, x1 Blue Cost: x3 White, x1 Blue
Health: 550 Health: 250
Power: 550 Power: 450
Effect: Draw a card. Effect: Draw 1 card.
AsrielMemer is strictly better than 2Hex.

AsrielMemer has better stats than 2Hex, but costs only 1 additional white icon. This both makes him a better icon generator and a better aggro card.

It should be noted that "strictly better" cares about cards being better in normal playing scenarios. There are scenarios where SnyFort (2W2B H400/P400) is better than FuryBlocks (2W H200/P400) (If your opponent is playing ProjectSlayer, for example), but we are concerned with just standard, normal playing scenarios.

Slightly Better/Worse

These cards are roughly even in power. Circumstance is more important in determining which one is better.

For example, let's compare TZSara to Blotnik

TZSara Luna.png

About TZSara About Blotnik
Cost: x3 White Cost: x3 White
Health: 600 Health: 400
Power: 300 Power: 300
Effect: During your end step: All players gain 100 Life. Effect: Whenever this card attacks: it gains 200 Health.
Depending on the situation, TZSara or Blotnik is better.

Whilst TZSara has better stats, Blotnik has something that TZSara doesn't: An effect that causes it to regain Health. This means that, when you attack with Blotnik for the first time, its stats increase to exactly the same as they would have been had you cast TZSara instead.

However, TZSara's effect should not be discounted. There are numerous cards with effects that trigger when you gain Life, such as NatzHakz and iSpaceDonut, to name a few.

Because of this, there are a number of circumstances where TZSara is better than Blotnik, and a number of circumstances where Blotnik is better than TZSara.

TZSara is better than Blotnik if:

  • Your opponent could take down Blotnik before it attacks.
  • You have cards that would benefit from TZSara's lifegain.

Blotnik is better than TZSara if:

  • Your opponent has a fighter or several with low Power, like a Doge or [[Final Tree]
  • You lack any cards that would have benefited from TZSara's lifegain.


Some cards have entirely different purposes, and should not be compared in order to determine card power.

For this example, let's compare Bobaman1 to Luck o' the Lobsters.

Bobaman1 Card.png
Luck o' the Lobsters Luna Fixed.png

About Bobaman1 About Luck o' the Lobsters
Cost: x4 White Cost: x4 White
Health: 400 Health: N/A
Power: 400 Power: N/A
Effect: When this card is cast, if your opponent controls at least 5 fighters: Deal 400 damage to all enemy fighters. Effect: Cast only if you have 1500 or less life. Deal 4000 damage to all fighters.
Even though they have similar effects, Bobaman1 and Luck o' the Lobsters have entirely different purposes.

First off, ask yourself the purpose of these two cards.


  • His effect deals a medium amount of AoE damage to your opponent's side of the field only.
  • His effect can only be triggered when the opponent has 5 or more fighters.

Hmm... A medium amount of damage won't destroy all fighters, but it will destroy most weak fighters. Aren't there several decks that love to spam fighters onto the board? Take the Doge (Archetype), for instance. Most of their cards have less than 400 Health, and summon Doges.

Bobaman1, then, is an anti-aggro fighter that punishes the opponent for overextending.

Luck o' the Lobsters:

  • Deals a very high amount of damage to every fighter on the field. This means that, when you cast it, you don't want to have more fighters on the field than your opponent.
  • It can only be cast when you have 1500 or less life - alternatively known as 'losing.'

Sound familiar? An empty board, your opponent preparing to finish the job... That situation, the 'endgame,' is where this card thrives.

Luck o' the Lobsters, then, is a lategame card that gives you the chance to make a comeback.

To solve the problem of noncomparables, you would have to add a rider to your question. If you were to ask yourself which card was better in a normal deck, it would be Luck o' the Lobsters, as its condition can be met by every deck. If you were to ask yourself which card was better in a Control deck, it would be Bobaman1, as the Control deck's slow speed would allow your opponent to easily gather fighters.

2. Factors of Power

Whilst comparing cards is all good and dandy, what are the traits that make cards better?

  • Cost: If a card does the same thing as another card for less, it's strictly better. (Note that icon costs got weird after Storexit dropped. White icons now affect the number of cards you can play each turn, and all other icon types affect when you can play a card. There's a whole blog post about it.)
  • Card Advantage: "Draw/Give yourself a card" is the best effect in the game. Cards that add cards to hand, cards that take multiple hits to kill, etc, all contribute to card advantage. Anti-Zanzel Lifeloss makes excellent use of a variety of card advantage sources in order to grind down the Priestess Zanzel AI.
  • More Health/Power: If it can destroy higher-Health fighters, or take more hits from lower-Health fighters, it's generally better. NOTE: Power is valued at approximately double that of Health.
  • Utility: If a card can do many different things and is applicable in many different situations, it can be considered good. The Crystal Cycle is an excellent example of this.
  • Buildaround: Buildaround cards, such as SlingshotJunkie, get much stronger if you base your entire deck on exploiting them, or "build around" them. Buildaround cards are almost always found at lower rarities.
  • Weakness Management: Cards that allow decks and colours to manage their weaknesses, such as Bobaman1 in a Control deck, can be very powerful.
  • Resilience: Some cards have special effects which make them harder to be removed via effects. 1337 is the granddaddy of this type of effect. Cards that are easy to remove are usually weaker.
  • Demands Removal: Cards such as The Stalker must be dealt with by using a removal spell. If you don't, you risk losing major amounts of card advantage. More on removal here.

3. Baselines

There are over 1000 cards in the game. Comparing every card to every other card would take forever. Luckily, this is what baselines are for.

Baselines are statlines created by cards that are (or were) exceptionally good at a specific task. They are very good to compare other cards to, and save time.

Oftentimes, cards start out at the baseline, and their stats are decreased to 'pay' for their effect.

Note that one color's baseline is not applicable to the cards of another color. Certain colours have cards that are better for certain things.

Whilst baselines do exist, they are plentiful. I'll let other people list them.

The baseline for 3 coloured icons and 0 white icons is H500/P500, set by the Coloured White cycle's old statlines. (Doomed Adventurer, Tootso, Wrath of Azure, Scare & Crow)

The baseline for 3 white icons is H500/P300, or H300/P500 if you're in Red. This was set by Developer and Ambamby

2W3B and 2W3Y have a baseline of H650/P650, set by Pizzablawk and TeeVee, respectively.

4. Examples

So. You've seen what to compare cards to. Let's see if you can figure out how these cards relate. Are these cards strictly better/worse, slightly better/worse, or noncomparable?

1a) In a blue aggro deck, is the comparison of Furyblocks to RiceStorage Strict, Slight, or non-comparable?

1b) Is FuryBlocks better or worse than RiceStorage?


About FuryBlocks About RiceStorage
Cost: x2 White Cost: x2 White, x1 Blue
Health: 250 Health: 450
Power: 400 Power: 300
Effect: N/A Effect: Whenever your opponent gains life, unlock RiceStorage and give it 100 Health and Power.



2a) In a red control deck, is the comparison of AntiSammeh to DIY: Biggerhead Strict, Slight, or Noncomparable?

2b) Is AntiSammeh better or worse than DIY: Biggerhead?

DIY Biggerhead.png

About AntiSammeh About DIY: Biggerhead
Cost: x2 White, x2 Red Cost: x2 White, x2 Red
Health: 350 Health: 350
Power: 500 Power: 700
Effect: Destroy target fighter if it has 200 or less health. Effect: Deal 250 damage to a target fighter, then give that fighter 300 Power. This card cannot generate icons.

3a) In a yellow swarm deck, is the comparison of Loogi to TheGamer101 Strict, Slight, or Noncomparable?

3b) Is Loogi better or worse than TheGamer101?


About Loogi About TheGamer101
Cost: x3 Yellow Cost: x1 White, x5 Yellow
Health: 300 Health: 600
Power: 300 Power: 400
The next fighter you summon has an additional 300 health and power. Abilities don't trigger when Loogi enters play. All non-yellow fighters lose 200 Health. All yellow fighters gain 200 Health.