To learn how to build a deck in general, go to the page Deckbuilding 101.
So, you want to know how to make an aggro deck. Good choice!
Aggro decks are decks that go as fast as possible, not concerning themseIves with the long game. Aggro decks sacrifice any chance of winning a long game to defeat an opponent in the early game.
In comparison to other decks, aggro decks:
- Are simply faster than other decks. This is their main pull.
- Lose power as the game goes on. End your opponent quickly!
- Play cheaper and weaker creatures. They want to get killing very quickly.
- Play less removal and only a few stallbreakers. These slow you down, and you want more threats.
- Play more card draw.
- Play less colour fixing/ramp. They have a ton of cheap and weak things; those things pay for themselves.
- Play more threats. Midrange decks play around 30 threats. Control decks play around 3. Aggro decks play around 37. If a card you put into an aggro deck isn't killing your opponent, it better have a good purpose.
- Gravitate towards red and yellow. Blue can aggro, but tends to go into aggro-midrange, whilst Green has very few aggro cards.
To understand how an aggro deck works, we're going to look at monoyellow aggro.
|Western Bandit x4
DIY Headphones x2
The Piece Breaker
First off, all the cards in this deck can be split into four categories:
1) Aggro Cards
Off of the bat, 17 of the 40 cards in this deck cost 0-2 white, with cards like Finland giving you your yellow studs back. This means you can almost empty your hand very quickly and very easily on the first turn. This deck has some of the most explosive first attacks in the game.
2) AoE Buffs
These six cards are to be played on turn two, to buff your cards to ridiculous heights before slamming into the opponent. You'll normally have 1-2 of them in your opening hand, allowing for extreme damage on the first attack, bypassing most defences an opponent could muster on that turn.
3) Midrange Cards
These 9 cards are the "top-ends" of this deck. Note that for a midrange deck, these would be near the middle or bottom of the curve. These cards exist to kill off enemy midrange strategies, closing and finishing the game. Valletta is particularly important because it draws cards, allowing you to extend how long you can keep the pressure.
These four cards are a small toolbox of different effects, designed to stop you from falling behind. Widgeon makes all your fighters meatier, Mzh3000 destroys the mirror and helps against control decks while wiping the board clean, and The Piece Breaker burns off the remaining HP the opponent has if they barely stabilize.
What's interesting to note is that this deck doesn't care about optimal splashing. This is because we're not expecting the game to go on long enough in order for this suboptimal splashing to hurt.
Note that every single card in this deck is a fighter; every card is in there to hit the opponent until they die, including the stallbreakers.
So, what can we learn from this?
- An aggro deck needs to be able to empty its hand quickly in the first few turns.
- An aggro deck needs to have something to prevent the stabilisation of the opponent; that's the buffing cards here.
- All cards in an aggro deck serve to close the game early.
Here are some good aggro cards in other colours: